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fiberartist219
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« on: July 29, 2007, 03:24:16 PM » |
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Does anyone have any ideas as to how to sew a jacket? I don't need anything complicated, because I still consider myself to be a beginner sewer. I am mostly looking for a simple design. I might be able to design one myself, but I'm afraid it will look wonky. I am planning to make it out of velvet, so if I mess up, it will be expensive to start over.
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tiedyejudy
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« Reply #1 on: July 30, 2007, 02:31:35 AM » |
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I'm assuming you do not have a pattern to follow? I don't think I would try it without at least a basic pattern. My recollection is that you sew the fronts to the back at the shoulders, sew the side seams, sew the seams on the sleeves then pin them into the openings on the jacket and sew them in. Somewhere, you need to attach interfacing on the front edges, and then there is the matter of whether you will line the jacket or not. Lots of things to think of! If no lining, then you would turn up the hems for the sleeves and the jacket bottom. Oh, and will you be putting in button holes? That would come after you have sewn in the interfacing on the front edges. Lastly, the buttons. Oops, I forgot the collar! Well, you can see why a pattern would be a good thing to have.... good luck!
Judy
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ktaltre
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« Reply #2 on: July 30, 2007, 07:30:37 AM » |
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You really need a simple jacket pattern - go to a fabric store (JoAnns) or look on the internet. You don't need a collar, unless you want one.
And practice sewing the jacket with muslin or any lighter weight cotton first!!!!!
Starting to sew with any kind of velvet would disappoint you to no end; velvet is problematic to even the experienced sewer. For example, all seams need to be hand basted on velvet before sewing with the machine as velvet shifts under the needle/presser foot. And the seams on velvet need to finished, meaning no raw edges - velvet frays a lot and you'll lose the seam if the seams aren't finished.
You really need to know how to sew fairly well to tackle a velvet project.
k. taltre
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fiberartist219
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« Reply #3 on: August 01, 2007, 04:21:18 PM » |
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Hmmm. This sounds a lot harder than I thought. I might practice sewing on some scrap velvet, and then make a mockup of a jacket with a cheap muslin... THEN I'll try it with the real deal. Of course, in addition to all the fraying, and moving around, I also need to concern myself with the nap of the fabric... It will be quite a challenge!
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ktaltre
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« Reply #4 on: August 01, 2007, 05:31:30 PM » |
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Don't let me scare you (BOO!). But velvet is a b***h to sew.
Years ago I made a patchwork velvet (probably polyester) jacket. I glue basted the seams (ironed dry) before sewing and then washed the jacket shell gently before lining it to wash out the glue. I had to sew all the seams over again after the wash and construct strange little patches to fix completely frayed away spots.
I'm assuming that you want to make a velvet jacket and then tie dye it, so you'll want to have strong seams. I suggest seam binding.
Cotton velvet is somewhat easier to work with than silk or rayon or polyester velvet.
And yes, make a "muslin" and wash the muslin fabric first. I made a "muslin" once and didn't wash the fabric and every time I ironed a seam, the muslin shrunk, tch, had to cut and make another muslin.
k. taltre
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fiberartist219
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« Reply #5 on: August 06, 2007, 05:53:28 AM » |
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I already made my muslin mockup. Unfortuantely, I didn't wash it first, but I don't intend on washing the muslin one much. I'm just going to use it for a pattern.
I am thinking I'll probably zigzag the edges of the velvet so it will reduce fraying. I plan on dyeing it before I sew it up, so I don't have to worry about messing it up. I am also thinking I'll line it with habotai, and if I do a really good job, it might even be reversible. I'm going to forego any type of buttons or zippers (although my machine does do automatic buttonholes, but I don't want to go out and buy buttons). I think I'll do a ribbon tie kind of like Dharma's tie front rayon jacket.
Anyway, my design is pretty simple, so I'm going to keep it easy.
Now all I have to do is save up some money for the fabric, and I'm good to go. I will be sure to post pictures, but it will probably be a few weeks, because velvet is expensive, and quite frankly so is shipping the velvet here.
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fiberartist219
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« Reply #6 on: August 16, 2007, 04:23:25 PM » |
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UPDATE:
The velvet is wetting out tonight. The dyeing will happen tomorrow. Then, Saturday, I'll probably rinse, dry and cut the pieces. Hopefully by Monday I'll have it all sewn up! I'm thinking once it is done, it will be quite the masterpiece, so if it actually goes well, I'm going to photograph it like mad. If it doesn't go well, then I will be sad and say that at least I will have tried.
Wish me luck!
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Lelia187
Newbie
Posts: 36
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« Reply #7 on: August 24, 2007, 11:00:31 AM » |
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What type of sewing machine do you use? Also, what exactly is zig-zag sewing? I have a general idea what it is, but I want you to explain it to me... PLEASE! I never really have worried about fraying because my mom has a serging machine, which basically takes care of all my fraying problems.  I've never really used those home sewing machines. My mother is a professional seamstress/designer. She makes wedding gowns and I always use her industrial sewing machine. It made me nervous when I first started because they are so powerful. Now, I can barely sew on the home machines. I am very interested in this jacket you are creating. Please post pictures and tell me how to do it. Also, how hard it is to dye velvet? GOOD LUCK |
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fiberartist219
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« Reply #8 on: August 25, 2007, 02:28:44 PM » |
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Zigzag is basically a stitch that goes back and forth rather than in a straight line. I have a Singer machine, but honestly, I have never seen a home sewing machine that didn't have a zigzag stitch.
The velvet I dyed didn't fray much so I skipped that step. I figured if it stood up to the washing machine without any fray protection, it can do it again. Sewing it wasn't as hard as I thought it was going to be. The silk is proving to be more difficult than the velvet was.
Velvet is not hard to dye at all if you use the rayon silk blend. Basically, the velvet from Dharma is the kind that has the silk backing and the rayon pile. It dyes beautfully. I have made scarves in the past and they catch people's attention. Basically, you can dye it the same way you do cotton. Rayon works with the same chemicals.
When I first dyed this batch though, I was going for a black and white tiger stripe, but the white parts ended up mostly black too... so I had black with dark grey stripes.... I ended up discharging it with thiox and dyeing over it with fushia, turquoise and yellow. Now it looks like a techicolor dreamcoat! Perhaps a bit too flashy with the bright colors, but it still looks and feels luxurious. The good news is that I have enough material to make another one, so I can do it again with a better color combination.
I haven't had time to finish sewing the lining yet. I hope to finish it tomorrow and perhaps post a picture sometime next week.
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Lelia187
Newbie
Posts: 36
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« Reply #9 on: August 28, 2007, 07:42:15 AM » |
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What is thiox? Where can I get it? I REALLY want to see a picture. You really are tempting me to steal your idea *  * and try to make my own technicolor jacket! |
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pburch
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« Reply #10 on: August 28, 2007, 08:26:02 AM » |
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What is thiox? Where can I get it? Thiox is short for thiourea dioxide, one of several reductive discharges that you can use to remove dye from silk as well as other fibers. You can buy it by mail-order from dye suppliers such as PRO Chemical & Dye, Dharma Trading (which calls it "Dyehouse Color Remover"), and G&S Dye. Paula |
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fiberartist219
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« Reply #11 on: August 28, 2007, 05:51:42 PM » |
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UPDATE:
Ok, I will admit it now... the velvet is a pain to sew. LOL... I can't say I wasn't warned! It was fine sewing it to itself, but sewing it to the silk is torture. The fabric keeps slipping, no matter how many pins I put in. I'm determined to finish it though... even if it takes forever! Hmm... if I don't finish it by Thursday, I'll just post a work in progress.
Anyway, if anyone has advice for making the fabric stay put, let me know.
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pburch
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« Reply #12 on: August 29, 2007, 03:13:04 AM » |
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Is there such a thing as a temporary, wash-out fabric glue?
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Lelia187
Newbie
Posts: 36
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« Reply #13 on: August 29, 2007, 08:42:08 AM » |
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I don't know... maybe try holding the fabric really, really tightly while you sew... or maybe some quick basting stiches before you sew with the machine? I think Paula has the right idea about the glue though  |
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ktaltre
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« Reply #14 on: August 29, 2007, 03:45:13 PM » |
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Yes there are wash out fabric glues. I've just been experimenting with wash out fabric glue stick.
You can get that stuff at Joanns or other fabric type stores; maybe at Michaels too.
I think basting first might be the way to start to attach the velvet jacket to it's lining, then machine sew.
I once saw a real Channel jacket, wool with silk lining; a friend was altering it. It was completely hand sewn.
You could hand sew the lining to your velvet jacket.
k. taltre
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